Beyond Dubai’s Glitter: Tracing the Emirates Before Oil

Before the United Arab Emirates dazzled the world with futuristic skylines and billion-dollar resorts, its wealth shimmered under the sea — in pearls. For generations, divers braved the warm waters of the Persian Gulf, descending with only primitive tools and sheer endurance. A thousand oysters might yield just a handful of perfect gems — treasures that sustained the region long before oil changed everything.

On a hazy Saturday morning, I stood aboard a wooden dhow off the coast of Ras al Khaimah, the northernmost emirate. The jagged Hajar Mountains glowed in the distance, while a guide in a spotless white head scarf welcomed us to the historic Suwaidi Pearl Farm. He opened an oyster with practiced precision and lifted out a lustrous pearl — a glimpse into the life that once defined this land.

My visit was a conscious escape from Dubai’s glittering frenzy. I wanted to see what the Emirates were before the modern rush of wealth and immigration reshaped them. Locals told me: “Go to the other emirates.”

So I spent a week exploring Sharjah, Ajman, Fujairah, and Ras al Khaimah — quieter, more traditional corners of the country that still whisper of the past.

Sharjah: Culture and Continuity

Arriving in Sharjah felt like stepping into a different century. The Chedi Al Bait hotel, with its earth-toned walls and palm-lined courtyards, seemed a world away from Dubai’s neon skyline. The air carried the scent of salt and woodsmoke, and the lanes glowed softly under yellow lamps.

Sharjah’s ruler, Sultan bin Muhammad Al-Qasimi, has championed education and culture since 1999. The Museum of Islamic Civilization, crowned by a golden dome, showcases centuries of science, art, and faith. Nearby, the Heritage Museum preserves the story of pearl traders and sailors who built this nation long before skyscrapers defined it.

At the Arabian Tea House, I shared a meal with a Pakistani engineer who called the UAE “the new promised land” — a place where ambition still meets opportunity. His kindness, paying for lunch without a word, captured the hospitality I felt throughout the Emirates.

Ajman: The Relaxed Escape

Just north of Sharjah lies Ajman, the smallest emirate but one full of charm. Locals call it “the easygoing emirate” — home to long beaches, boutique hotels, and a slower pace of life. At the Fairmont Ajman, the breakfast table mirrored the country’s diversity — zaatar flatbreads beside bowls of Russian kasha.

Later, at Al Tallah Camel Racecourse, I joined an Italian family to watch riderless camels thunder across the sand, followed by SUVs speeding alongside. The laughter and cheers mixed with desert dust — an oddly joyous blend of old and new Arabia.

Fujairah and Ras al Khaimah: Where Mountains Meet the Sea

On the eastern coast, Al Bidyah Mosque, dating back to 1446, stands as the oldest in the UAE — a whitewashed symbol of faith overlooking the Gulf of Oman. Unlike the oil-rich emirates of the west, Fujairah has long been tied to maritime trade, linking Arabia to East Africa and India.

Crossing back to Ras al Khaimah, I visited the Al Jazeera Al Hamra Heritage Village, once a bustling pearl-diving community, now preserved as an open-air museum. Later, at the Anantara Mina Ras Al Khaimah Resort, I watched flamingos wade in mangrove shallows as the sunset painted the desert gold. The contrasts — luxury and simplicity, tradition and progress — perfectly captured the spirit of the Emirates.

Pearls, after all, are born from pressure — just like this remarkable nation.